It was late in the day as we climbed the hill to Montmartre. Snow had been swirling most of the day. But, tiny bits of blue now peeked through the moody clouds.

Our goal was the second-highest point in Paris, the Sacre Coeur or “Sacred Heart,” but we were getting a late start. The woman at the ticket office said the tower was open, but she was closed. We bought two tickets (5 euros) at the outside kiosk. At the back of the cathedral we found the unassuming entrance and climbed nearly 300 steps. We wound around the roof lines and ascended the final stairs to the inside of the dome.

Paris spread out below – a literal living history map. The imposing Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe built by Napoleon, the ancient towers of Notre-Dame, the Louvre Art Museum, the rooftops of the artist district of Montmartre, and hundreds of centuries-old landmarks.